We are going to devote this blog post to one of the most unique and exhilarating trails that Tara and I have done in our quest to visit every National Park.
Angels Landing in Zion National Park, Utah.
When we first visited Zion in Nov 2015, we were a bit anxious about Angels Landing’s reputation for being such a death-defying hike, so we decided not to hike it. We opted for Narrows and Observation Point instead (which are also outstanding hikes that every one should do). We had a great trip, but for years and years afterwards, I had a nagging thought ... “man...we really should have done Angels Landing.”
So in Nov 2018, in celebration of Tara’s 30th birthday, we returned to Zion with a singular goal in mind: conquer our fears and brave Angels Landing.
We’re so glad we did; it was an adventure, it was thrilling, it was fun! Summiting the precarious perch gave us a real sense of accomplishment and has been one of our greatest experiences in our National Parks.
Angels Landing is not very long (2.4 miles one-way) and has an elevation gain of about 1,500 ft, but what makes the hike so iconic is the last half-mile that leads to the very top. This half-mile is along a narrow, precipitous, exposed ridge of the fin-like mountain formation. And when I say precipitous, I mean precipitous! 😬 We’re talking a sheer 1,000 ft drop...on both sides. So keep your wits about you. 😀 There are some guardrails and chains to help you get to the top (and believe me, you’ll be thankful for them), so you may want to have gloves for that part, but it is not necessary. This chain section is intimidating, but the reward is worth it. You get an unparalleled 360 degree bird’s-eye view of nearly the entire Zion Canyon. It is really quite spectacular.
My advice: START EARLY! Start as early as you can. Think of an early time to start the hike...and then embark an hour earlier. Thanks to instagram and social media, this already popular hike has become even more popular. On summer weekends (particularly holiday weekends) this hike will get very crowded. Look, the chain section is not TOO bad, but the less people there are on it while you’re scrambling up and down...the better.
We left on the first shuttle bus leaving the Visitor’s Center for the day. Take the bus to the Grotto Stop (it will be the 6th stop), and cross the bridge over the Virgin River, your are now at the trailhead for Angels Landing. The trail starts out pleasant and innocuous enough. After a half-mile or so, you begin to switchback up the canyon walls. You get a nice preview of the view that awaits you.
After the first set of switchbacks, you reach Refrigerator Canyon. Here, you get a little break from the climb and cool off from the sun. It’s practically always in shadow, so it’s quite brisk in this section.
Then you will start a vigorous climb out of Refrigerator Canyon on a series of very compact switchbacks known as Walter’s Wiggles. Built by the CCC in the 1930s, these switchbacks are very impressive and memorable. Your legs will burn and you’ll be huffing and puffing...and after 21 short, steep switchbacks...you’ll get to the top. Look down for a rather dizzying view. I hear if you continue on the West Rim Trail (instead of Angels Landing), you’ll get some incredible views of the Wiggles.
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| top of Walter’s Wiggles looking down. |
At this point in making this blog post, I’m starting to realize we didn’t take a whole lot of pictures. 😀 I think that we were so focused and anxious about the hike, we didn’t stop to take pictures. The camera took a backseat to making sure we we’re putting one foot in front of the other.
At the top of Walter’s Wiggles, you reach Scout’s Lookout. This provides a pretty good view of the Canyon and if you want to continue on to the West Rim Trail, head to the left, if you want to go up Angels Landing, head to the right. If you chicken out, head back down. 😀 But seriously, if you really start to get anxious about the heights and the chains section, Scout’s Lookout is the perfect place to rest for lunch and return to the canyon floor.
Ok, now the chains section begins. This is the infamous and death-defying part of this trail. Is it that bad? ... I will say this ... I was very anxious about doing the hike ... and it’s not as bad as it looks. It really isn’t. It will require good concentration and the will to power through. But you can do it! I hauled my big 300+ lbs. butt up to the top ... you can too. 😀 I will say that looking at the ridge from Scout’s Lookout is very intimidating (as we started on the chains section, a group of teenagers decided to turn around at the end of the first guardrail, and head back down). It’s no big deal if you can’t bring yourself to do it, but don’t let your first view of the exposed ridge close-up scare you. It really isn’t as bad as it looks.
Again, it helps tremendously if there are less people on the trail with you. Go at your own pace and don’t feel pressured to hurry. Proper trail etiquette is that hikers heading uphill have right-of-way. If you don’t feel safe letting go of the chain when people pass...don’t let go. Get to a safe spot where you are ok to let go of the chain and let other people pass if necessary. Because of our early start (and going in early November which is a relatively quiet time in Zion), we really didn’t interact with too many other hikers on the chains section (going up and coming down).
Just keep putting one foot in front of the other, and use the chains to make your way up. There is ONE spot (called the “Step of Faith”) that will really test your fear of heights, but again, it’s not as bad as it looks. Just stay calm and press on. You can do it!
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| I got to go up all that?! |
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| Looking back towards Scout’s Lookout |
Ok...so what do I think about the hike overall? Honestly, one of the best and most fun hikes I have ever done in my life. I would recommend everyone try to do this hike at least once in your life, but at the same time I realize that it is not for everyone. If you’re a little out of shape, exercise and prepare for it for a few months before heading down to Zion. Now, if you are truly scared of heights...I would urge you to try, but turn around at Scout’s Lookout if you have to. This is NOT a hike for small children, probably no younger than 8 or so. If there is bad weather or if trail conditions are slick or slippery (from rain or snow, etc.) DO NOT ATTEMPT! And finally, focus on the trail! This hike requires your concentration. No picture or selfie is worth it. People have died from falling on this trail. According to the park website, there have been 9 deaths on the trail (with 3 of them since 2017). Be prepared, be courteous, be safe, be smart. You will have a blast, it is truly an amazing hike. We loved it!
My best advice: Start early, start early, and start early! 😄
And at the end of the day, relax in your hotel’s hot tub and watch the dazzling sunset play out on the rocks and mountains of Zion Canyon, and then treat yourself to some decadent gateau (chocolate cake) at the Switchback Grille in Springdale. You’ve earned it!
Tara’s Take: I first heard about Angels Landing when I was a kid. My older brothers and my dad went to Zion on a Scout trip. I remember hearing stories about their trek up Angels Landing: the steep trail, sheer drop offs, and only a chain to cling to. It sounded extreme and terrifying. Angels Landing was just too intimidating. I have an incredible fear of heights. It takes everything I have to jump off of a high dive. I have serious anxiety on chair lifts. There was no way I would ever do this hike. To add to my hesitation, in 2009, while in college, an acquaintance’s mother slipped and fell to her death from the narrow trail. It was final, I would never hike Angels Landing.
Fast forward to 2015. Paul and I had visited numerous parks, and had done some amazing hikes. As we did research for our travels, Angels Landing kept coming up as one of the best hikes the NPS has to offer. We visited Zion and had a wonderful time, but our visit to Zion felt incomplete without doing such an iconic hike. Over the next few years the desire to climb Angels Landing slowly began to build. In 2018, we had time to go on a short trip for my 30th birthday. What better way to celebrate turning 30 than to conquer some fears? We set out to climb Angels Landing.
The hike was very strenuous, scary, and the most rewarding experience I have ever had. First, Zion Canyon is one of the most beautiful places in this world. The views are stunning! Every step of the hike is beautiful. It is also broken into nice sections. After the first set of switch backs, you can rest and take in the cool Refrigerator Canyon. Next are more switchbacks including the infamous Walter’s Wiggles. Scout Lookout is a great place to rest and gear up for the chains section. Pack everything away. You’ll want your hands free. The chains were freezing and the sandstone can tear up your knuckles, so I was glad I packed gloves with rubber grips. This hike was as much a mental challenge as it was a physical one. “Don’t look down. Stop and take in the views. I said not to look down! Focus on your next foot and hand placements. Take it one step at a time.” This monologue ran repeating through my head. The top was amazing...and windy. After taking in the views we headed back down. I found the way down to be more difficult. I don’t know if it was because of more people on the trail by that time, my bad knees, the fact that my adrenaline was gone, or I was just wiped out. After Walter’s Wiggles, my legs wobbled the rest of the way down.
I would say conquering my fears and doing something I never thought I could do was a great way to celebrate my 30th birthday. Would I do this hike again? Yes! Should you do this hike? Yes!
My advice: Start EARLY! Having more people on the trail definitely would have made it more challenging. Wear gloves with good grips. Stay focused. Be safe!
BONUS: we did a few other things at Zion on our trip. We hiked the short, pleasant trails of Weeping Rock (Weeping Rock Shuttle Bus Stop, stop #7) and the River Walk (the last stop for the shuttle bus). At the end of the River Walk trail is the trailhead for the Narrows. Another spectacular hike in the park, we did it on our first trip to Zion in 2015, but not this time around.
Another new hike we did this trip was the Zion Canyon Overlook Trail. This isn’t one you can reach on the shuttle bus. Instead, drive up to the East side of the park, as soon as you get through the tunnel, you will find the parking lot for this trailhead. It’s a short, mile hike to a great view of the canyon, particularly at sunset.
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| Sturdy as a mountain goat...😄 |
With these spectacular views and iconic hikes like Angels Landing and the Narrows...is it any wonder that Zion is my favorite National Park? Truly the pinnacle of Utah and the NPS. Check the park website for current limitations/restrictions in the park and trails during the pandemic. https://www.nps.gov/zion/index.htm
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| Observation Point from Angels Landing |
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| Zion Canyon (looking south from Angels Landing) |
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