Paul & Tara Visit the National Parks: Pu'ukohola Heiau National Historic Site

Visited: Sept 2023

Nearby town: Waimea, HI

"Forward, my young brothers! Drink the bitter waters of battle. There is no turning back."

Kamehameha's rallying cry to his warriors at the Battle of 'Iao in 1790

For hundreds of years, control of the Hawaiian islands was divided by a multitude of Polynesian tribes, each with their own tribal leaders. This led to frequent warfare as rival chiefs battled for power and control. The islands lacked a central governing body. This changed with the rise of a great tribal chief and warrior, Kamehameha.

Much of Kamehameha's upbringing is lost to history, accounts place his birth sometime in the 1740s or 1750s. He was raised in the royal court of his uncle, and became the tribal leader of the Waipi'o Valley, a pristine and isolated valley on the northern coast of the Island of Hawaii, aka the "Big Island."

A large volcanic rock, known as the Naha Stone, was a symbol of royalty on the Big Island. The stone was used to prove the legitimacy of the bloodline of anyone claiming to be of Naha rank (i.e. royalty). When a child was born, it was placed on the rock. If the baby remained silent, it was of Naha rank. If the baby cried out, it was considered a false claim of royalty and those making the claim were cast out. A legend had long been told that if any man could single-handedly overturn the stone, that man would be granted the power to unify all of Hawaii. As a young teenager, Kamehameha was able to lift the stone and overturn it.

This incredible feat of strength and apparent fulfillment of prophecy convinced many surrounding tribal leaders to pledge loyalty and fidelity to Kamehameha. As his legend grew and his warriors subdued competing tribes, Kamehameha was able to bring the entire Big Island under his rule by 1782. With the Big Island under his control, Kamehameha looked to the west to bring the other Hawaiian Islands under his control as well. This proved difficult. Although he had some success at the Battle of 'Iao on Maui in 1790, he was eventually forced to retreat back to the Big Island as the Maui tribes continued to put up fierce resistance despite heavy losses.

Upon his return, Kamehameha's cousin, Keoua, rebelled against him and led a small band of followers to the east coast of the Big Island. Kamehameha became greatly concerned that he was losing his grip on the island. A trusted kahuna ("priest") suggested that Kamehameha construct a heiau ("temple") to gain the favor of the war god Kuka'ilimoku and help Kamehameha in his quest to unite all the islands.

Construction began on the Pu'ukohola Heiau (meaning "Temple on the Hill of the Whale"). The temple was completed in 1791, measuring 224 feet by 100 feet. Upon completion, Kamehameha summoned his rebellious cousin, Keoua, to the heiau with the ruse of a peace treaty. When Keoua arrived on the shore, he and his followers were killed by Kamehameha and offered as sacrifice to the war god. With the heiau now dedicated, Kamehameha began anew his campaign to unite all the Hawaiian islands under his authority.

This ancient temple is now preserved at the Pu'ukohola Heiau National Historic Site along the west coast of the Big Island. Start your visit at the small museum to learn about the tumultuous history of this region and Kamehameha's rise to power and his quest to establish the Kingdom of Hawaii.

this area of the Big Island can be very arid, almost like a desert. It was particularly dry during our visit.

replicas of ceremonial spears

It took about a year to complete the heiau. It was built entirely by hand without mortar. The stones used to construct the heiau were transported via a human chain streching nearly 14 miles long.

Take the coastal trail out to the temple. Hawaiians consider this a very sacred site and it should be treated as such.

While the temple was being constructed, the ship Fair American was attacked by Native Hawaiians along the Kona coast. The Fair American was a small schooner engaged in maritime fur trade from the Pacific Northwest. All aboard were killed, except a Welsh seaman named Isaac Davis, who was spared because he allegedly put up a "brave fight." Davis was taken to Kamehameha, who welcomed Davis to his court, and the two quickly became friends. Davis and another stranded British sailor, John Young, became trusted military advisors to Kamehameha. They instructed Kamehameha's warriors in the use of muskets and cannon. Their assistance was invaluable to Kamehameha's quest to unite the islands. Once the Kingdom of Hawaii was established, Davis helped Kamehameha establish diplomatic relations with foreign nations.

Eventually, Kamehameha conquered and subdued the island of Maui in 1794 and the island of Oahu in 1795 at the Battle of Nu'uanu. This battle was famous for its dramatic finish when a large number of Oahu warriors were driven off the cliffs by Kamehameha at Pali lookout. The unification of the islands was completed in 1810, when Davis led negotiations between Kamehameha and the king of the island of Kauai. The king of Kauai became a vassal to Kamehameha. For the first time in history, all the Hawaiian islands were led by a single ruler, King Kamehameha I.

King Kamehameha I enacted a unified legal system, opened trade with Europe and the United States, and took other measures to ensure the longevity of his realm. Kamehameha passed away in May 1819. His descendents would continue to rule the Kingdom until 1893 when Queen Lili'uokalani was overthrown by a coup led by Hawaiian subjects of American descent and backed by the US military. They established the Republic of Hawaii with the purpose of annexation by the United States. Hawaii was annexed by the United States as a territory in 1898 and eventually became a state in 1959.