Paul & Tara Visit the National Parks

Visited: Nov 2015
Nearby town: Fredonia, AZ

"So about the year 1886, I moved to Pipe Spring.

In other words, I went to prison to keep my husband out."

-from the journal of Flora Woolley, polygamous wife of Bishop Edwin D. Woolley

In the wild and lonely high desert of Northern Arizona, just across the border from Utah, lies a small fort placed atop a natural springs. The springs are an oasis, providing precious water to a harsh and unforgiving landscape.

Evidence indicates that the Ancestral Pueblans and Paiute Indians used the springs to grow crops and hunt over a thousand years ago. The surrounding area is now the reservation of the Kaibab Band of Paiute Indians.

In the 1850s and 1860s, Mormon Pioneers from Salt Lake City passed through the area on their way to missionary expeditions to the Hopi Indians further to the south. One of the pioneers, James Whitmore, was intrigued by the springs and came back here to settle and operate a cattle ranch. Whitmore eventually ran into conflicts with local Indians, and Whitmore was killed after living here for a number of years.

Mormon leader Brigham Young later sent Anson Perry Winsor and his family to claim the spring, restart the ranch, and build a fort. The small fort became known as Winsor Castle. The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints (Mormon) owned and operated the land as a tithing ranch. The cattle and livestock sent here (paid as tithing by Church members) was used to provide food and dairy products for the workers of the Mormon Temple in St. George. Some impressive longhorns are still kept on the property to this day.

With the passage of the Edmunds-Tucker Act of 1887, federal agents started to prosecute polygamy with more force (the Morrill Act of 1862 had banned bigamy/polygamy in the federal territories, including Utah, but had essentially been unenforced). Under the new law, polygamy was criminalized and those practicing it could be fined between $500 - $800 and imprisoned up to five years. The federal government tripled the number of U.S. Marshals in Utah Territory to enforce the new measures. Many Church leaders went into hiding, and some (in an effort to hide the "evidence" that they had multiple wives) sent their polygamous wives to live in Pipe Spring at Winsor Castle, which being in Arizona Territory, lied just outside the purview and jurisdiction of the U.S. Marshals in Utah. Pipe Springs was a safe refuge, because the nearest U.S. Marshals that had jurisdiction in Arizona were stationed hundreds of miles away in Tombstone. Even if a U.S. Marshal in Arizona wanted to apprehend them, he'd have to travel hundreds of miles across undeveloped land with no established roads or pathways, not to mention cross the Grand Canyon itself, in order to do it. Such a daunting task assured they would not be prosecuted or arrested.

The Church ended up losing the property as one of the penalties of the Edmunds-Tucker Act, and the Castle fell into private hands. Later, in 1923, the first director of the National Park Service, Stephen Mather, was traveling between Zion and Grand Canyon when his car broke down near the Castle. As he learned about the history of the site from the locals, he successfully lobbied the government to purchase it and designate it as a National Monument.

The place serves as an interesting roadside stop. There is a nice visitor center and museum detailing all the history of the site. If you want to go inside Winsor Castle, you must accompany a ranger on a guided tour. The guided tours are free and occur throughout the day, there is no set time. There's not too many visitors at this out of the way place, so once you show up just wait a couple of minutes and a ranger will take you through.

the doors to Winsor Castle were big enough so that a wagon could enter the inside courtyard

In 1871, Brigham Young commissioned the Deseret Telegraph system to install a telegraph at the outpost. This would be the very first telegraph in what would become the state of Arizona. This telegraph provided Winsor Castle a crucial and vital link to the outside world. The first operator was Eliza Stewart Udall (female telegraph operators were relatively rare at the time), who would later become the matriarch of the influential and powerful political family. Her son served as Chief Justice of the Arizona Supreme Court; two grandsons: Stewart Udall, Secretary of the Interior for Kennedy and Johnson; and Mo Udall, long time congressman and Democratic candidate for the President in 1976; and two great-grandsons: Mark Udall, Senator of Colorado 2009-2015; and Tom Udall, the current Senator of New Mexico. That's quite a legacy.

the telegraph wire. First telegraph in Arizona

Life on the frontier at Pipe Springs was not easy. The men worked sun up to sun down, milking 80 to 100 cows a day. Women made butter (40+ pounds) and cheese (60+ pounds) each day, and had to cook and clean not only for their family but all the ranch hands as well. Laundry alone took an entire day to complete, once a week. Children, as young as 7 or 8, helped to run the ranch as well. One pioneer woman, Emma Seegmiller, described life at Pipe Springs in her journal as follows:

"Pipe Springs, a pioneer fort, is the most desolate place I have ever lived, situated on a point fronting an open desert, where it could get full force of the heavy winds and sandstorms common to the locality. I have known those sandstorms to rage three days at a time, sand so thick that the opposite side of the fort was almost obscured. After every storm, house cleaning was necessary and from a single room I have swept or shoveled out five gallons of sand, the broom would not carry the weighty bulk to the door. ... I don't know how we ever came out of some of the hard places that conditions forced on us, unless as mother used to say 'we do the best we can and the Lord does the rest.' ...

at intervals in my life I have dreamed that I must go back there to live, the depression I felt at the thought and utter loneliness of again taking up my life there made waking seem like a boon

from heaven."

the inner courtyard of Winsor Castle

this stove is original

drying rack

channel for water from the natural spring

large vat for cheese

If you find yourself in the area (likely on your way to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon) take an hour or two for the pleasant and interesting stop. It's well worth the visit. For more info: https://www.nps.gov/pisp/index.htm

As Tara and I have explored this great land of ours in the quest to visit every National Park, we have gotten the chance to spend time in lovely, quaint, and beautiful towns throughout the country.

This post will rank the Top 10 cities that serve as gateways to the National Parks. Bear in mind that I have only ranked cities that we both have been to. This ranking is going to be based solely on the town itself (not necessarily the park it's adjacent to), focusing on things to do in and around town (other than the park), places we ate at, natural scenery, towns we could actually picture ourselves living in, etc.

First, some honorable mentions:

HONORABLE MENTIONS:

Estes Park, Colorado

Population: 5,858
Gateway to: Rocky Mountain National Park

Unfortunately, Tara and I really did not get to spend any time here on our whirlwind visit to Rocky Mountain NP (we basically just drove through). However, the preview we got was enough to merit an honorable mention. An incredibly scenic backdrop (thanks to the majestic, yet hilariously-named, Lumpy Ridge), and a picturesque resort town. Home of the historic, opulent, and (in)famous Stanley Hotel, that served as Stephen King's inspiration for the Overlook Hotel in The Shining (and the filming location for the 1997 TV-miniseries), it was also the filming location of the glamorous hotel that Harry and Lloyd stay at in Dumb & Dumber.

International Falls, Minnesota

Pop: 6,424
Gateway to: Voyageurs National Park

Unlike most of the other towns on this list, International Falls is not some fancy-schmancy resort town for the uber-wealthy...this is a just a good-old town full of hardscrabble, down to earth, "gosh-dern nice" Midwesterners just waiting to welcome you to the outdoor paradise that is Northern Minnesota. Nicknamed the "Icebox of the Nation," International Falls averages nearly 110 days per year with a high temperature below freezing...yikes! (you might want to visit only in the summer) 😉 Visit Smokey Bear Park, learn about Bronko Nagurski (pro-football Hall of Famer who played for the Chicago Bears back in the 30s), and cross the bridge into Ontario. International Falls also served as the inspiration for the cartoon town of Frostbite Falls, home of Rocky & Bullwinkle.

Restaurant: check out the Chocolate Moose Restaurant. Big, hearty helpings of comfort food for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The Raspberry Monte Cristo (a French Toast ham sandwich) was amazing. Shakes/malts were good too. Outstanding food!

West Yellowstone, Montana

Pop: 1,271

Gateway to: Yellowstone National Park

West Yellowstone is the town on this list that Tara and I have been to the most. It's not super picturesque, but serves as a perfect place to stay while visiting Yellowstone. Tons of stores to buy knick-knacks and souvenirs (a lot of the stores are open-air, it's kind of like a big strip mall). Make sure to catch a show at the Playmill Theater (they do lots of crowd-pleasing, family-friendly productions) and stop at the visitors center and IMAX theater to get all the information you could possibly want about Yellowstone.

Restaurant: Arrowleaf Ice Cream Parlor is a traditional stop for Tara's family. Great ice cream and sundaes with Yellowstone themed names like "Paint Pots" and "Geysers", etc. Unfortunately, according to Google it appears that the place has permanently closed down. If so, that's a shame.

AND NOW, THE TOP 10:

10. Hot Springs, Arkansas

Pop: 35,193
Gateway to: Hot Springs National Park

This hill town in Arkansas is fun and full of historical treasures. The town completely surrounds Hot Springs National Park (a rare park that has an urban setting). Here you find the historic Arlington Hotel, the favorite retreat of Al Capone in the heyday of gangsters and mobsters. Hot Springs was also home to spring training for many baseball clubs back in the day. Take the Historic Baseball trail and walk in the footsteps of such luminaries as Babe Ruth, Walter Johnson, and Honus Wagner. President Bill Clinton grew up here and there's lots of tributes to him throughout the town. There are also lots of great examples of Art Deco architecture. Play some mini-golf, take a boat out on Lake Hamilton, or go to Magic Springs Theme & Water Park. Conclude your day at the Hot Springs Mountain Tower for fantastic views of the city.

Restaurant: Load up on deep-fried seafood (shrimp, catfish, oysters, clams, etc.) at Bubba's, the "Seafood of the South." I have also heard Taco Mama's is very good.

9. Medora, North Dakota

Pop: 112

Gateway to: Theodore Roosevelt National Park

Medora lies just outside the south unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park. The big attraction here is the Medora Musical, which is performed nightly throughout the summer. The show is a big production with lots of boot-stompin' honky-tonk country music. It's a fun show. Also check out Cheateau de Mores State Historic Site, the home and hunting lodge of the Marquis de Mores, a French aristocrat and entrepreneur, who founded the town and ran a successful slaughterhouse and cattle operation. The 1883 home is a fabulous example of luxury life on the frontier.

Restaurant: pair up your ticket to the Medora Musical with the Pitchfork Steak Fondue for a hearty meal before the show.

8. Durango, Colorado

Pop: 16,887

Gateway to: Mesa Verde National Park

Although Mesa Verde NP is nearby, there is a whole lot more to do in the beautiful mountain town of Durango. Hop a ride on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad for a thrilling ride through the Rockies along the Animas River. Make sure to reserve an open-air car to really enjoy the scenery. This is a great way to re-live the glory days of rail travel.

Restaurant: for a small town, Durango has a wide variety of upscale restaurants. We liked the Himalayan Kitchen, a great place to try Indian, Tibetan, and Nepalese cuisine.

7. Terlingua, Texas

Pop: 58

Gateway to: Big Bend National Park

Quirky and eccentric Terlingua is practically a ghost town. But don't let that cause you to drive through, Terlingua is a great place to stay when visiting Big Bend NP...you don't have a lot of options anyway in this lonely and isolated corner of West Texas. This old mining town has a number of odd-ball shops, historic hotels and restaurants, outfitters and guides to explore the backcountry by bike or kayak, and a rundown, historic cemetery. It's quite charming. This is the desert at its finest.

Restaurant: The main attraction here is the Starlight Theater Restaurant. The whole town seemingly converges at night at this restaurant & saloon that used to be an old-fashioned cinema palace...until the roof blew off. Enjoy good company, live music, excellent food, and look up to see the stars. Go traditional and get the award-winning chili, or the famous Diego Burger (served with a fried egg). Or, if you're a little more adventurous, try the venison, quail, or wild boar. Wash it down with a Prickly Pear cactus margarita. If you're lucky to be in town on the first Saturday of November, you can participate in one of the largest chili cook-offs in the country.

6. Springdale, Utah

Pop: 529

Gateway to: Zion National Park

With a backdrop of the majestic Zion Canyon, Springdale might be one of the most beautiful cities in the entire United States. After a hard day of hiking, there's nothing better than resting in the hot tub at one of the numerous hotels in town, and watch the dramatic sunset unfold on the stunning red-rock mountains. Truly amazing.

Restaurant: Springdale has so many outstanding restaurants. If you're looking for American comfort food in a low-key and fun atmosphere...try Wildcat Willie's (the drinks come in big mason jars). If you're looking for something more upscale, try the Switchback Grille. Excellent crab cakes, an incredible filet mignon, and gateau (fancy French chocolate cake) to die for.

5. Jackson, Wyoming

Pop: 9,577

Gateway to: Grand Teton National Park

Jackson has become a playground for the wealthy elite, but it still retains its Old West, small-town charm. Just west of town is the incredibly posh ski-resort, Jackson Hole. Take the tram all the way to the top of the mountains for awesome views and fresh mountain air, you'll feel like you are on top of the world. Enjoy some waffles at the shack up on top. Overpriced, but very good and a fun place to eat and chat. In town, there's lots to see and do: go on a Chuckwagon dinner show, visit the world renowned museum of wildlife art, and stroll downtown through the shops, stores, and make sure to see the antler arch. If you are into snow skiing, Jackson is the place to be.

Restaurant: If you've never tried buffalo (bison), go to Jackson now! The Gun Barrel is a fantastic place to try bison and elk, or get the Buffalo Burger at the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar and enjoy live music as well.

4. Moab, Utah

Pop: 5,046

Gateway to: Arches National Park and Canyonlands National Park

Moab gets some bonus points because it pulls double-duty, serving as the gateway to both Arches and Canyonlands (particularly the Island in the Sky region) in southern Utah. This red rock paradise attracts so many tourists that traffic jams on the main highway are a common occurrence on the summer weekends (it's kind of a downer). Many tourists don't even necessarily visit the National Parks, there are so many other things to do here. Moab is a mecca for off-road enthusiasts, and has numerous treacherous and thrilling "courses" for ATV's, side-by-sides, 4x4s, dune buggies, and jeeps. There are also a number of opportunities to float the Colorado River (everything from a leisurely float in an inner tube to extreme white-water rafting). Mountain biking, rock climbing, and BASE jumping have also become incredibly popular here.

Restaurant: on our last visit we went to a newly-opened restaurant, the Sultan Mediterranean Grill. It was incredible! Lebanese & Greek cuisine; we had the tzatziki, gyros, lamb, and pitas. It was so good. And for desert the baklava was incredible. Relatively cheap and great service! Highly recommend.

3. Bar Harbor, Maine

Pop: 5,235

Gateway to: Acadia National Park

Bar Harbor, on the rugged coast of Maine, to put it simply...is absolutely gorgeous. A great town to serve as your base as you explore Acadia National Park. We took a boat tour out to Cranberry Islands and were blown away at all the massive "cottages" that line the shores. The town had a fun, laid-back atmosphere with tons of stores, shops, and bookstores. One evening we took a sunset sail on the Margaret Todd, a four masted schooner. We made new friends and were entertained by live fiddle music. It was very relaxing, calming, and a beautiful and romantic evening on the water. Loved it.

Restaurant: every place we ate at Bar Harbor was fantastic. Just stick with the lobster...you can't go wrong. Lobster bake, lobster roll, lobster bisque, lobster pasta, lobster pizza, or even lobster ice cream(?!)...whether you get it at Geddy's, or Testa's, or wherever...just get the lob-stah!

2. Key West, Florida

Pop: 24,649

Gateway to: Dry Tortugas National Park

I hesitated to include Key West on this list, it's not really known as a "gateway" town to a National Park...but really, the only way to visit Dry Tortugas NP is either from a ferry or a plane from this incredible and unique city. Therefore, Key West makes the list. It's a little unfair, because there is a lot more going on here than simply the long ferry ride out to Fort Jefferson. Key West, aka "The Conch Republic" is an incredibly fun, care-free town full of history. The town is so unique and out-of-the-way (drive over the ocean on miles and miles of bridges), you almost feel like you're in a different country. Indeed, roosters roam the streets at will. 😊 There really is no other place in the USA like Key West.

No visit to Key West would be complete without a stop at the home & museum of the famous author Ernest Hemingway. Visiting Harry Truman's "Little White House" is also a great stop. Relax at one of the many beaches: these are calm waters without hardly any waves; tour a lighthouse; learn about pirates; or just get wasted away in Margaritaville. Key West is its own culture, it's a way of life. It's a party town (but not like college-kid spring break party town...more like "I'm an old guy and I don't care and I'm going to walk around in black socks and sandals" kind of party town). 😊

Restaurant: This town is all about the seafood. Wherever you go, it will be good. We had fish tacos at some random place along Duval Street (I can't remember the restaurant, but it was delicious). It's the main drag, anything along there is good. If you want to get drunk like Hemingway, he was a near-constant presence at Sloppy Joe's Bar. That place was hopping. Whatever you do, do NOT leave town without getting a slice of Key Lime Pie. You bet, this is where it was created, and it...is...fantastic!

1. Gatlinburg/Pigeon Forge, Tennessee

Pop: 3,944 (Gatlinburg); 5,875 (Pigeon Forge)

Gateway to: Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Do you like kitschy, homespun Appalachian culture? Well, bless your heart. All y'all will love Gatlinburg! (and nearby Pigeon Forge). We fell in love with the place on our visit to the Great Smokies. Gatlinburg has bounced back from the devastating fires in 2016 and is a great resort town. Take the gondola up to the Ober Gatlinburg, a resort inspired by the Swiss Alps (but still with a distinct Southern flavor).

Take the short drive down to Pigeon Forge (it's only 2-3 miles), where you will find dozens of go-kart courses, hillbilly mini-golf, comedy shows, dinner shows, quirky museums (think wax museums, etc.), Christmas shops, and lots of fun and games. And it's all relatively inexpensive. The town is practically a shrine to Dolly Parton, and if we had time we would have visited her theme park, Dollywood. Regardless, we went to her Dixie Stampede Dinner Show. It was corny, but it was lots of fun, great music, acrobatic horse riding, etc. And the food was pretty dang good too. It's a hootin' and hollerin' good time! Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge is a vacation destination in and of itself (even without venturing into Great Smoky Mountains National Park...but don't y'all go makin' that mistake, ya hear?)