Hot Springs National Park

Visited: March 2016

Nearby town: Hot Springs, AR

Hot Springs National Park is pretty unique. It is the smallest National Park in the NPS. It is also the only Park that is in an urban setting, the Park is literally the historic section of the resort town of Hot Springs, Arkansas. If you want to be in nature, don't worry, that's possible too. The Park extends into the hills and forests just outside town, so there is some hiking trails and a campground in the Park.

The natural hot springs had been used by Native Americans for thousands of years, who referred to the area as the "Valley of the Vapors." Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto was the first European to discover the area in 1541. The healing waters of the hot springs became a popular place in the early US, and people traveled from all over the country to bathe in the water to treat rheumatism and other ailments. The area became federally protected in 1832 (therefore, one could argue that Hot Springs is in fact THE first National Park). 

Hot Springs became a popular tourist destination and resort town. At its heyday in the 1920s (it became a National Park in 1921), it was home to all the spring training for all Major League baseball teams, a frequent vacation spot for Al Capone and other gangsters, lots of gambling (all illegal but authorities didn't really do anything about it), horse racing, and of course, take a bath in the famous hot springs waters to rejuvenate and revitalize in one of the fabulous spas along Bathhouse Row. The Park preserves Bathhouse Row, the Grand Promenade (a beautiful walkway along the bathhouses), and the mountains just outside town that overlook Bathhouse Row. The Park is an historic delight, with the bathhouses well preserved in their Gilded Age and Art Deco architecture and style. To visit Hot Springs National Park is to go back in time.

The main attraction is Bathhouse Row. The southernmost bathhouse (and the first one on our tour) is Lamar, which is used today as the Park Gift Shop.

Just to the north is Buckstaff Bath. This active bathhouse is owned by the NPS. If you want to experience a traditional bathhouse experience (like people did in the 1920s and 30s, etc) this is the place to go. At the entrance, women and men separate, men on the first floor, women on the second floor. You're given a robe and a towel etc. You will have an attendant at the bath who'll fill it up for you at make it just the right temperature. They'll give you a good scrub down. Afterwards you sit in the Sitz Bath, then the sauna (I felt like I was too big to fit in the vapor closet thingy. You know one of those boxes where only your head is sticking out), then you take a needle shower, then you can get a massage, or pedicure, etc. More info here: https://www.buckstaffbaths.com/ Most folks go au naturel, but if you're apprehensive about that, you don't have to. 😊 It's a nice experience, but frankly, kind of awkward. Who wants an attendant when you're taking a bath? 😊 But you do get pampered, so that's nice.

Next up is Ozark, which is used as an art museum.

The next house is Quapaw. This is also an active bathhouse. But it is privately owned. More info here: http://quapawbaths.com/. It appears to be more of a modern spa/massage experience than Buckstaff.

Next up is the Fordyce Bathhouse, this serves as the Visitor Center and Museum. Lots to see and do here. Spend about an hour or so to go through the museum and see the elegance and learn about the traditional bathhouse experience.

needle shower

bath and sample of attendant's clothing (womens)

sitz bath and vapor closet

handy tip

stretching equipment

bath used for paraplegics and non-ambulatory patients. They would lower them in on that platform hanging above

an electro-massage to give you a little shock

gymnasium

There are three more bathhouses along the row, Maurice, Hale, and Superior. At the time, Maurice and Hale were under renovation, and the Superior is a bar/restaurant. At the end of Bathhouse Row is a fabulous historic hotel, the Arlington, where Al Capone stayed. Spend some time walking around downtown and the Grand Promenade to soak up the scenery and the atmosphere.

Arlington Hotel

the hot springs are collected in these pools through artificial means

this attractive walkway is known as the Grand Promenade

Once you are done exploring Bathhouse Row, head up Hot Springs Mountain Road to climb the tower for a great view of the surrounding area. We also took a short hike to Goat Rock.

this large building in the foreground at the base of the hill is the old Army-Navy Hospital

large building at base of the hill is historic Arlington Hotel

Tara caught a glimpse of this beautiful cardinal

Goat Rock

Hot Springs was the boyhood home of Pres. Bill Clinton, he lived here from 1950-1961. You can see the High School where he graduated from and the house he lived in (just from the road, it is a private residence).

former Hot Springs High School. Bill Clinton graduated here. 

Bill Clinton's boyhood home

So, Hot Springs National Park...what to say. I wouldn't go too far out of your way to visit (like we did, but hey, we got a goal to accomplish). But if you find yourself in the area, it's a pleasant stop and it's got lots of historical value, and the Visitor Center and Museum is free. There's also lots to do in the rest of the resort town. If we went again, probably would not do the traditional bathhouse experience, maybe a little too authentic. 😊 I think I'd prefer a more modern spa. More info on the park here: https://www.nps.gov/hosp/index.htm

Top Ten Scenic Drives

The road trip vacation. It's an American tradition. One of the joys of our National Parks is that they are so accessible by car. Sure, it's good to hike, backpack, horseback ride, kayak, camp and really rough it in the backcountry, but our Parks can be enjoyed from the ease and comfort of your own automobile. I have compiled the Top 10 scenic drives within our National Parks that we have been on so far. First, some honorable mentions:

Teton Park Road, Grand Teton National Park

Open May through October, this 21 mile drive from Moose Junction to Jackson Lake Junction is the best way to view the majesty of the Tetons. Make sure you take the pull out at Jenny Lake Overlook (it's a one-way road) for the spectacular view of Jenny Lake.

Scenic Drive, Capitol Reef National Park

At a little over 10 miles (the last mile and a half is unpaved), Scenic Drive leads you from the Visitor Center to Capitol Gorge. There's lots of pullouts along the way, so take advantage of them. Great views of the Waterpocket Fold.

Artist's Drive, Death Valley National Park

This short, one-way, 9 mile loop road presents a wonderful array of colorful claystones and multi-colored badlands. It's a must see while driving through the seemingly barren and endless Death Valley.

And now, the Top 10:

10.     Cades Cove, Great Smoky Mountains National Park

There are lots of scenic drives in the Smokies, most of them narrow winding roads (like Newfound Gap, Tail of the Dragon at Deals Gap (which has 318 curves in a 11-mile stretch of road), Laurel Creek Road, and Roaring Fork Motor Trail). But Cades Cove is the most scenic, nestled in a stunningly beautiful valley in the middle of the Smokies. There's lots of wildlife, lots of hiking trails, lots of pullouts, and lots of historic buildings and farms to explore. Allow 2-4 hours to make this drive, and try to go early in the morning to avoid tourist traffic.

9.     Scenic Loop Drive, Theodore Roosevelt National Park, South Unit

This 36 mile scenic drive is full of surprises in this corner of North Dakota. Lots of pullouts to explore these beautiful badlands. Also great views of the Little Missouri River, and you may spot some feral horses.

8.     Drive from White River Entrance to Sunrise Visitor Center, Mt. Rainier National Park

This white-knuckle drive takes you to the Sunrise Visitor Center, near the base of majestic Mt. Rainier. Take the road as early as possible so you can see the sun slowly reveal the astounding peak. If you're driving don't stare in awe at the mountain for too long, this is a very narrow road with lots of steep drop-offs and hardly any shoulder. Pay attention! 😊

7.     Tioga Road, Yosemite National Park

Tioga Road (or State Highway 120) is the only road that connects the western and eastern boundaries of Yosemite. It's a very high alpine road that traverses through the Tuolumne Meadows and provides great mountain views. It usually opens May or June (depending on snowfall) and closes for the season in November.

6.     Rim Drive, Crater Lake National Park

This road clings to the rim as it circles entirely around Crater Lake. Lots of pullouts providing stunning views of the incredibly blue lake and surrounding area. This is one of the snowiest areas in the entire US, so the road is only open from July to October or so.

5.     North Cascades Scenic Highway, North Cascades National Park

This road (State Highway 20) bisects the Park into a North and South Unit. This stretch of highway through the mountains is simply stunning. Make sure to stop at the Diablo Lake Overlook (pictured above) and Washington Pass Overlook. There's plenty of stops and pullouts to enjoy this remote wilderness area.

4.     Park Loop Road, Acadia National Park

This 27 mile road takes you to all the highlights of this wonderful National Park in Maine. During the busy summer months, you can take a Shuttle Bus that will make stops at all the main attractions. The road culminates by climbing to Cadillac Mountain, the highest point in not only the Park, but also the entire Atlantic Seaboard.

3.     Grand Loop Road, Yellowstone National Park

This 140 mile road creates a giant figure-eight throughout the Mother of our National Parks. I can almost guarantee you will see wildlife along this road, and it connects all the great sights in Yellowstone. You'll want to devote at least 2-3 days to explore everything along this road. Be patient if you have to sit through a bison traffic jam (they happen). Most of the road closes in winter, only the stretch between Mammoth Hot Springs and the Northeast Entrance is open year round.

2.     Trail Ridge Road, Rocky Mountain National Park

Trail Ridge Road (U.S. Highway 34) traverses for 48 miles over the Continental Divide and climbs up to 12,183 ft, making it one of the highest paved roads in the country. Climbing up this road is a rather death defying experience, but once you get above the treeline the rewards are worth the sweat. The views of high mountains are simply amazing. This is the only road in the Park that connects the western and eastern boundaries.

1.     Going to the Sun Road, Glacier National Park

This 50 mile road, completed in 1933 is an engineering marvel. Although not as high as Trail Ridge Road, this road also crosses over the Continental Divide, highest point 6,646 ft, the mountain views are simply more dramatic. This road literally clings to the mountainside as you see incredible views of lakes, mountains, forests, and glaciers. There's not a lot of pullouts (it's so narrow), so make sure to stop at the Logan Pass Visitor Center to soak in the views. Don't soak up the views if you're driving, this road demands your attention! It's an incredible drive.

What are your favorite drives in our National Parks?