Dry Tortugas National Park

Visited: Feb 2019

Nearby city: Key West, FL

Dry Tortugas is an incredibly unique park that Tara and I had a blast visiting. The park protects the westernmost and most isolated of the Florida Keys.

The main key (island) is Garden Key. It is located approximately 68 miles west of Key West. There are no roads that lead to the park. In order to visit, you need to take the Yankee Freedom III ferry or seaplane from Key West. Theoretically, you could take a private boat to the Park, but it would be quite a journey.

We opted for a day trip via ferry. The Yankee Freedom III leaves daily from Key West. It's an early start, but they'll take care of you. They provide breakfast, lunch, and snorkel gear. On a day trip, you'll get about 4.5 hours on the island. They will provide a guided tour of Fort Jefferson, or you can explore and snorkel to your heart's content. The boat also sells plenty of other things you might need (including dramamine). This is a great way to visit the Park. I feel that the 4.5 hours is adequate. If you wish to stay longer, you can reserve a campground, but you need to do it approximately 8-12 months in advance. You can also rent kayaks and paddle out to the other keys (Loggerhead Keys is about 2.5 miles away, and is home to a beautiful lighthouse).

your vessel to the Dry Tortugas

This is quite the ferry ride. It's about 2 hours and 15 minutes (one-way). So your visit will pretty much take up the entire day.

The Dry Tortugas were discovered by Ponce de Leon in 1513 during his first expedition to the Florida peninsula. While there, the explorers were easily able to catch turtles (as some sailors described, a wave would crash onto the boat leaving a sea turtle beached on the deck). The turtles were a plentiful and excellent food source for the expedition party. Ponce de Leon named the islands "Tortugas" (Spanish for turtles). The prefix "Dry" was later added by mapmakers to indicate that there were no fresh water sources on these keys. And that is still true today. Remember, if you are camping, you need to haul in all your own water.

Dry Tortugas (along with the rest of Florida) was acquired by the U.S. from Spain in 1822. The US recognized the strategic importance of the Dry Tortugas and quickly developed plans to build a garrison or fort on Garden Key. The area between Key West and the Dry Tortugas (referred to as the Straits of Florida) was the main waterway for any ship going from the Atlantic Ocean to enter the Gulf of Mexico.

Construction of Fort Jefferson began in 1847. It would have been one of the largest masonry brick fortresses in the world, but construction was never completed. The fort practically takes up the entire key. It was quite the Herculean task to build a fort in such a remote and isolated location. During the Civil War, construction halted and the Fort was used as a military prison. Perhaps the most (in)famous inmate was Dr. Samuel Mudd. Dr. Mudd was controversially charged and convicted by a military tribunal for being a co-conspirator (or an accessory after the fact) in the assassination of Abraham Lincoln. Lincoln's assassin, John Wilkes Booth, had broken his leg during his escape from Ford's Theater. At about 4 in the morning, Booth showed up at Dr. Mudd's house, requesting treatment. Dr. Mudd set his leg, gave him some shoes, and provided him crutches. While the extent of Dr. Mudd's involvement and knowledge of the conspiracy has been disputed ever since, there is no dispute that Dr. Mudd waited over 24 hours before alerting authorities about Booth's early morning visit.

Dr. Mudd was sentenced to life in prison (he escaped the death penalty by a single vote). He was sent to Ft. Jefferson in July 1865. In 1867, a severe outbreak of yellow fever broke out in the fort. It was so bad, the prison doctor died. Dr. Mudd volunteered to take over the position. His efforts and work helped stem the tide of the disease. Because of his efforts, Dr. Mudd was pardoned by President Andrew Johnson in 1869.

approaching Ft. Jefferson

The Fort is very cool to walk around and explore. You can take the guided tour provided through the Yankee Freedom III staff, or just explore on your own. There is a moat that goes around the entire fort. This is a good place for snorkeling.

Inside the Fort.

In the late 80s, a number of Cuban refugees constructed this makeshift boat and landed on nearby Loggerhead Island. Per US Policy at the time, they were granted asylum.

extensive reconstruction on the guard tower/light house

We spent the rest of the day snorkeling, enjoying the beach and soaking in the views. It was a lot of fun. Didn't see too much snorkeling. Storms have come through and really churned up the waters, so the conditions weren't that clear. I hear that is a big problem lately, so if you are really into snorkeling there are better spots in the Keys.

Loggerhead Lighthouse in the distance

incredible ocean views

Dry Tortugas is an exceptional and unique visit. More info here: https://www.nps.gov/drto/index.htm

BONUS: Dry Tortugas is just one of many fun things to do in Key West. If you've never been to Key West, it really is quite an adventure. Taking the Overseas Highway from Miami to Key West is an incredibly scenic drive and the highlight of our Florida trip. Driving out to Key West, it's almost like going into a different country. I loved Key West (aka "The Conch Republic"), it's a quirky and laid-back town, unlike any I've ever been to the US.

Make sure to stop at Ernest Hemmingway's home. The famous author lived here from 1931-1939. Take a tour of his home, it's a must do.

it was in this studio that Hemingway wrote "Green Hills of Africa" and "To Have and Have Not"

We also stopped at the "Little White House" Formerly a naval officer's quarters, this home has been used by many Presidents, but most prominently by Harry Truman, who loved to take "working holidays" in the relaxing Keys. It's also a great tour.

Little White House

Key West is a great town to relax, window shop and people-watch. Lots of good food and a fun, party atmosphere. But not a bunch of wild teenagers, more like retirees (they're fun too, just not as annoying!) 😁 Also, be sure to get plenty of Key Lime Pie! It's so good!

Dry Tortugas National Park was a great park to "check off" our list!

Mojave National Preserve

Visited: Nov 2016

Nearby town: Las Vegas, NV; Baker, CA

On our drive down to Joshua Tree National Park, we exited the Interstate south of Las Vegas to take the back roads and take the scenic route through Mojave National Preserve.

I hesitated to do a post on the Preserve, because we merely drove through the Park and did not stay long at all. However, Mojave National Preserve is a unit managed and administered by the National Park Service. And this blog not only records our visits to National Parks, but also visits to other NPS units. Therefore, a post dedicated to this visit is appropriate. Just keep in mind, this won't be a long one. 😊

So, what is a National Preserve? The NPS manages National Parks, Monuments, Memorials, Historical Sites, etc. but I believe this will be the first post chronicling a visit to a Preserve. A Preserve is similar to a National Park in that it is set aside and protected for conservation purposes, however, unlike a National Park, a Preserve usually does permit certain natural resource-extractive activities such as fishing, hunting, mining, and oil/gas exploration and extraction. The legislation creating a Preserve can place certain limitations on those activities, but it is generally permitted.

There are 19 National Preserves in the US. 10 are stand-alone official units of the NPS, and the rest are distinct areas within a larger National Park or Monument.

Mojave National Preserve was created in 1994 and covers a large area of San Bernardino County, California. At over 1.5 million acres, it is the third largest NPS unit in the Lower 48.

We took the road that goes through the center of the Preserve. Talk about lonely roads, if you want to go out into the desert and feel like the last man on earth, Mojave National Preserve is the place to be!

Eventually you'll reach the settlement designated as Cima. Here you will find the largest Joshua Tree forest in the world. I really regret that we didn't stop to take some pictures. It was amazing and impressive to drive through the Joshua Trees in this location. The forest in Cima was bigger and thicker than any of the Joshua Tree forests you find in the National Park.

Your next stop is the ghost town of Kelso. I love ghost towns. Kelso has an old train depot that now serves as the Preserve Visitor Center.

the Kelso Jail

this beautifully maintained train depot is now the Visitor Center

Kelso was built in 1905 specifically to be a train stop on the route between Los Angeles and Salt Lake City, Utah. When some borax and iron mines opened nearby, the town's population grew to over 2,000 in the 1940s. The mines folded after about 10 years, and the town quietly faded away. The depot remained in operation until 1986. The NPS renovated the depot in 2005 and it has served as the Visitor Center since that time. 

Further down the road, we saw the Kelso Dunes.

Another section of the Preserve contains the volcanic formations of Hole-in-the-Wall and the Cinder Cone Lava Beds. However, we did not visit that part of the Preserve.

Just south of the Preserve is another cool ghost town of Amboy. It might not technically be a ghost town, but it's pretty close. As of the 2000 census, the town's population is 4. Like Kelso, Amboy was founded as a railway stop. And the town boomed when Route 66 opened in 1926. It was the only town for miles and miles as people trekked through the remote desert heading for a better life in the West. Amboy quickly became a popular stop along Route 66.

However in 1973, Interstate-40 opened and bypassed Amboy. Not too many folks ventured off the freeway and the town slowly died. However, 10 buildings are still preserved. Including the famous Roy's Motel and Cafe. I love retro buildings like this, especially the glorious sign. It's pure Americana.

Roy's opened in 1938. The sign was built in 1959.

The Amboy Crater, an extinct cinder cone volcano

The Amboy School remained in operation until 1999, when the last students moved away

If you find yourself driving through this lonely corner of California along Interstate 15 or Interstate 40, it's worth your time to get off the beaten path and explore the harsh beauty of the Mojave Desert. More info here: https://www.nps.gov/moja/index.htm