Alcatraz Island

Visited: June 2014

Nearby city: San Francisco, CA

"If you disobey the rules of society, they send you to prison; if you disobey the rules of prison, they send you to us. Alcatraz is not like any prison in the United States. Here, every inmate is confined alone. To an individual cell...I don't have good conduct programs, I do not have inmate counsels. Inmates here have no say in what they do; they do as they're told. You're not permitted to have newspapers or magazines carrying news; knowledge of the outside world is what we tell you. From this day on, your world will be everything that happens in this building."

-Patrick McGoohan as the Warden, from the 1979 film "Escape from Alcatraz"

In the sparkling waters near the entrance of the San Francisco Bay sits a tiny island that once housed perhaps the most (in)famous prison in the entire world. Known as "The Rock" the Alcatraz Federal Penitentiary was specifically designed and, thanks to the natural setting, to be virtually inescapable. 

Before it became a prison, the island was home to a military garrison after the U.S. acquired this territory after the Mexican War in 1848. During the Civil War the fort saw no battles, but it was used to imprison Confederate sympathizers and privateers. At the outbreak of the Spanish-American War, the fort was exclusively used as a military prison. 

In 1934, the main cell unit was built and the island was used as a federal prison. Inmates who caused trouble at other federal prisons would be sent to Alcatraz. They essentially put all the rotten eggs into one basket. For the next 30 years, the prison would hold some of the most notorious criminals in American history: Al Capone, Machine Gun Kelly, Robert Stroud (the "Birdman of Alcatraz"), Mickey Cohen, and Creepy Karpis. 

The prison proudly boasted that there were no successful escapes from Alcatraz. 36 prisoners made a total of 14 separate attempts to escape. 23 were caught, 6 shot and killed in their escape, 2 drowned, and 5 went missing, never to be seen again, presumed drowned. 

In 1946, a failed escape attempt led to the deaths of 3 convicts and 2 correctional officers, and 11 more officers wounded in what is now dubbed "The Battle of Alcatraz." In June 1962, Frank Morris, John Anglin, and Clarence Anglin conducted an elaborate escape attempt involving papier-mache dummies with human hair stolen from the barbershop as decoys, an electric drill improvised from a vacuum cleaner motor to chisel away at the cell walls, and a makeshift inflatable raft made from 50 stolen raincoats. The three fugitives did make it off the island in their raft, but no evidence ever emerged that they reached the mainland. In 1979, the FBI suspended the investigation and concluded that they drowned during their escape attempt. This story was popularized in the Clint Eastwood film "Escape from Alcatraz."

On March 21, 1963, after reports showed that the cost of housing inmates in Alcatraz was much more expensive than other prisons and more importantly, that the decades of salt water saturation had severely eroded the buildings and would require prohibitively expensive repair, the prison was permanently closed.

The prison sat abandoned for many years. In 1969, a group of Native Americans (mostly students) occupied the island for 18 months to protest Bureau of Indian Affairs Indian Termination Policy which would have ended federal government's recognition of Indian Tribes. During the occupation, the recreation hall, Coast Guard quarters, and the Warden's home were destroyed by fire. The protest ended when President Nixon rescinded the BIA's termination policy and established a new policy of self-determination and independent Tribal sovereignty. Graffiti from the occupation is still visible throughout the island.

In 1986, the island became a National Historic Landmark and is now managed by the NPS as a part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Tours are very popular and I would recommend getting your tour ticket (15 minute ferry ride from Pier 33 included) very early when you plan your trip. You will find it difficult to buy a ticket on the same day you want to visit. Touring Alcatraz is a highlight for any trip to the Bay Area.

We took the very first ferry of the day for the tour. It was an overcast, rather ominous day for our ride over to the island.

the prison looms in the distance

graffiti from the Native American occupation on the water tower

Your tour will include headsets and an audio recording that will tell you all the history and juicy stories of Alcatraz. Make sure to take your time and listen to everything.

these are the ruins of the military garrison, the first building on the island

typical cell

"Every window in Alcatraz has a view of San Francisco" -Susanna Kaysen

a makeshift tool used to widen the bars of the cell and attempt escape

the lighthouse

the warden's home. All prison staff also lived on the island

view of downtown San Francisco

replica of the dummy used in Frank Morris's famous escape

the cafeteria

menu from March 21 1963, the last meal served at the prison

a good way to keep track of all the cutlery in the kitchen...wouldn't want this to fall in the wrong hands

on our way back to the mainland

Alcatraz is a must see for the Bay Area and well worth a visit. For more info: https://www.nps.gov/alca/index.htm. Again, make sure you get your tickets early (at least a couple of weeks).

Minidoka National Historic Site

Visited: May 2014

Nearby city: Twin Falls, ID

"The Japanese race is an enemy race and while many second and third generation Japanese born on United States soil possessed of U.S. citizenship have become "Americanized" the racial strains are undiluted. It then follows that along the vital Pacific Coast over 112,000 potential enemies, of Japanese extraction, are at large today. There are indications that these were organized and ready for concentrated action at a favorable opportunity. The very fact that no sabotage has taken place to date is a disturbing and confirming indication that such action will be taken."

-this passage is from a report prepared by Lt. Gen. John L. DeWitt, head of Western Defense Command in "Final Report: Japanese Evacuation from the West Coast, 1942." This quote was also included in the U.S. government's brief to the Supreme Court defending Executive Order 9066 in the Korematsu case

"I don't want any of them [persons of Japanese ancestry] here. They are a dangerous element. There is no way to determine their loyalty … It makes no difference whether he is an American citizen, he is still a Japanese. American citizenship does not necessarily determine loyalty … but we must worry about the Japanese all the time until he is wiped off the map."

-testimony of Lt. Gen John L. DeWitt to Congress, specifically the House Naval Affairs Subcommittee to Investigate Congested Areas. April 13, 1943

December 7, 1941 is a date that will live in infamy. The attack on Pearl Harbor catapulted the United States into the global conflict of World War II. The aftermath of the surprise attack led to wartime hysteria and suspicion towards Japanese-Americans, intensifying discrimination that many Japanese-Americans had already been experiencing for decades. It did not matter whether it was a person born in Japan who had immigrated to the United States (Issei: literally "first generation), or someone born in the US who had Japanese ancestry (Nisei), the Japanese could not be trusted. They were treated like the enemy...because they looked like the enemy.

Just after the attack on Pearl Harbor, a Japanese Zero Pilot named Shigenori Nishikaichi crash landed on the remote Hawaiian island of Niihau. Three Japanese Americans living on the island attempted to assist the pilot and help him retrieve his documents and escape. This is a fascinating account (google "Niihau incident" for more info) full of misunderstanding and miscommunication. The bottom line: this incident was the match that lit the powder keg fueling the idea that the Japanese living here were spies and could not be trusted and was constantly used as justification for the government's policy of internment.

The government's response to the problem was swift and harsh. President Franklin D. Roosevelt issued Executive Order 9066 on February 19, 1942, which authorized the government to forcibly remove all persons of Japanese ancestry living along the Pacific Coast and relocate them to internment camps further inland. In the subsequent months, nearly 120,000 Japanese Americans were sent to ten camps throughout the American Mountain West. They remained imprisoned in these camps for the next 3 years or so, with the last camp closing in 1946.

One of these camps is located in a remote location on the high desert Snake River plain known as Hunt. It's about 17 miles north of Twin Falls. The camp was dubbed the Minidoka War Relocation Center. At its peak, the camp housed 9,397 Japanese Americans, most of them from Washington (particularly Bainbridge Island), Oregon, and Alaska. At almost 10,000 inhabitants, the camp was the seventh largest town in Idaho at the time.

Visitors can learn about this sobering and tragic time in our history at the Minidoka National Historic Site. This is a place that every American should visit and learn more about. There is a new visitor's center at the site, lots of exhibits, and placards describing the conditions of the camp and the experiences of the people who were interned there. Your first stop is the reconstructed guard tower, and the original foundations of the entry guard station and waiting room.

it was quite a shock for those leaving the beautiful, lush greenery of the Pacific Northwest to live in the barren desert of Idaho. Many would sit along the river here, seeking some solace in their terrible circumstances

waiting room

Entry guard station

Despite the country's mistrust of Japanese Americans, the U.S. Army opened military service to the Japanese Americans in 1943. Many were eager to sign up and fight for their country, even though their country had incredibly mistreated them. Nearly 1,000 internees at Minidoka enlisted with the Army, accounting for 25% of the total Japanese-Americans volunteers. At the end of the war, President Harry S Truman presented citations to a Nisei regiment, commenting "You fought not only the enemy, but you fought prejudice - and you have won." An honor roll at the site lists these brave Japanese American soldiers.

Take some time to walk the mile long trail that goes through the camp. You will pass by sites of the barracks where the internees lived, baseball field, hospital, root cellar, mechanic garage, and other buildings where meetings and activities were held.

Although this was a dark period in America's history and a great injustice perpetuated by our country's government, this is a history that must be learned about, confronted honestly and discussed openly. There are many lessons we can learn from our history, lessons we must learn in order not to repeat that history. As a placard states at the site's entrance "May these camps serve to remind us what can happen when other factors supersede the constitutional rights guaranteed to all citizens and aliens living in this country."

More info here: https://www.nps.gov/miin/index.htm  

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Visited: Sept 2017

Nearby cities: Knoxville, TN; Asheville, NC

Nearby towns: Gatlinburg, TN (north entrance); Cherokee, NC (south entrance)

Once two strangers climbed ol' Rocky Top

Lookin' for a moonshine still

Strangers ain't come down from Rocky Top

Reckon they never will

Corn don't grow at all on Rocky Top

Dirt's too rocky by far

That's why all the folks on Rocky Top

Get their corn from a jar

Rocky Top, you'll always be

Home sweet home to me

Good ol' Rocky Top

Rocky Top, Tennessee

Rocky Top, Tennessee

-Rocky Top, Boudleaux and Felice Bryant

Hardscrabble farming, whiskey and moonshine, southern hospitality, bluegrass, banjos, and the Blue Ridge Mountains...The Great Smokies encapsulate the unique and endearing culture of southern Appalachia.

With an average of over 11.3 million visitors a year, Great Smoky Mountains National Park is by far the most visited National Park in the entire country. In second place is Grand Canyon with 6 million visitors annually. The Great Smokies and the surrounding areas are a very popular and relatively inexpensive tourist destination, and is the largest protected area in the United States east of the Mississippi River.

The history of this region is full of tragedy. This part of the South was the ancestral homeland of the Cherokees. As European settlers encroached upon their land and disputes broke out, President Andrew Jackson signed the Indian Removal Act in 1830. This act initiated the forced removal of Cherokee, and all other Indian tribes east of the Mississippi River, to present-day Oklahoma. This forced march is now usually referred to as the "Trail of Tears." Nearly all of the Cherokees left the region. However, a renegade warrior, Tsali, led a small group of Cherokees to hide out in the mountains of what is now Great Smoky National Park to escape the forced removal. The descendants of Tsali's band still live just south of the park in the town of Cherokee and the Qualla Boundary.

Early European settlers in the area began to build small mountain communities. These were impoverished settlements that relied primarily on subsistence agriculture and farming. You wouldn't find the large cotton or tobacco plantations here that were prevalent throughout the rest of the South. Because of this, slavery was virtually non-existent in the area. At the outbreak of the Civil War, this region of Eastern Tennessee and Western North Carolina was largely anti-slavery, pro-Union and voted against secession even though the rest of their respective states overwhelmingly voted to secede. The farmers here viewed secession and the subsequent conflict as a "war for the rich, fought by the poor." There was even a movement among settlers in Eastern Tennessee and Northeastern Alabama to secede from the Confederacy and form a new pro-Union state known as "Nickajack." Although their efforts proved unsuccessful, many resisted the Confederate draft and joined the Union Army. For nearly one hundred years following the Civil War, this area was essentially the only region in the entire South that supported the Republican Party.

At the turn of the 20th century, the economic prospects of the region improved as the lumber industry grew. A railroad to transport lumber caused more economic growth. As the trees fell, concerns about the preservation of this beautiful landscape grew. Many locals banded with wealthy philanthropists like John D. Rockefeller and the federal government to create a National Park in the east. Great Smoky Mountains National Park was created on June 15, 1934. One of the conditions Rockefeller placed on his donation of the land to the government was that access to the Park would always be free. Therefore, Great Smoky Mountains National Park is one of the few parks that has no entrance fee.

The touristy towns of Gatlinburg (made to replicate a pleasure town in the Bavarian Alps) and Pigeon Forge (essentially a shrine to Dolly Parton) are excellent home bases to explore the Park. The Park is huge and you're going to want to devote a number of days to it. Our first stop was Cades Cove. Cades Cove might be the most popular destination in the park. It contains a scenic one-way road that travels through a beautiful valley nestled in the Smokies. There are a number of trails, historic farms, churches, and wildlife viewing. We went for a short horse carriage ride.

We then took the scenic drive through Cades Coves. Just sit back and relax. Take your time, and make sure to stop along the way and soak up the scenery.

About halfway along the Cades Cove scenic drive is the trailhead for Abram's Falls. This is a pleasant 5 mile roundtrip hike. This is a good family hike. Although its long, it's not too strenuous.

Further along the scenic drive are some historic farms, a mill, and some houses. Be sure to make a stop here to learn about early subsistence agriculture in this area.

The Becky Cable House was built in 1879

The next day we drove along the Newfound Gap Road (US Highway 441) this is the main thoroughfare of the Park that connects the North and South Entrance. Along this road is the trailhead for the Chimney Tops Trail. This is a popular trail, but the last portion of the trail has been closed since the 2016 fire. You can still go on the trail, but you won't be able to get to the top of the mountain. Another popular trail across the street from the Chimney Tops is the Alum Bluffs Trail. We took this trail instead. It's a little over 2 miles to the Alum Bluffs. The trail follows a beautiful river and then after a mile or so you get to Arch Rock.

After Arch Rock, the trail starts to climb up Mt. Le Conte. You'll get a break in the trees, and the majesty of the Smokies burst into view. The "smoke" of the Smokies comes from the natural fog that almost perpetually hangs over the range. Eventually you get to the Alum Bluffs, also called the Alum Cave. Epsom salts and saltpeter, used to make gunpowder, were mined from this area. This is a great spot to stop and enjoy the views. If you wish, you can continue on the trail to the top of Mt. Le Conte.

We continued along the Newfound Gap Road. Make sure to stop at the Newfound Gap, at 5,046 ft, is the highest point along the road. The Appalachian Trail passes right along here. Also take the offshoot road here to go up to Clingmans Dome. This is the highest point in the state of Tennessee and offers great views.

At the south end of Newfound Gap Road, stop at the Oconaluftee Visitor Center and the Mountain Farm Museum.

Another great hike to take is Laurel Falls. It's only 2.6 miles roundtrip and leads to a wonderful 80 foot falls.

Another great stop in the Park is the one-way scenic drive, Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail. The drive is closed during the winter months. Here is where you find the trailheads to Rainbow Falls and Grotto Falls.

The town of Gatlinburg has many tourist attractions and the only downhill ski resort in Tennessee. Take the tram in town to head up to Ober Gatlinburg, an amusement park with rides, ski mountain coaster, alpine slides, indoor skating rink, chair lifts, restaurants, and a small zoo. The town of Pigeon Forge also has lots of tourist attractions for families. There's tons of go-kart tracks, mini-golf, kitschy Southern and Christmas shops, and lots of dinner shows. The most famous one being Dolly Parton's Dixie Stampede. You eat all the food with your hands, and there's lots of music and expert horse riding, etc. It was a lot of fun. There is also of course Dollywood (The South's answer to Disneyland). These towns are definitely a vacation destination in itself, but make sure to spend lots of time in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park while you're there. It's a beautiful park that we enjoyed immensely. More info here: https://www.nps.gov/grsm/index.htm