Wednesday, June 26, 2019

Top 10 National Park cities

As Tara and I have explored this great land of ours in the quest to visit every National Park, we have gotten the chance to spend time in lovely, quaint, and beautiful towns throughout the country.

This post will rank the Top 10 cities that serve as gateways to the National Parks. Bear in mind that I have only ranked cities that we both have been to. This ranking is going to be based solely on the town itself (not necessarily the park it's adjacent to), focusing on things to do in and around town (other than the park), places we ate at, natural scenery, towns we could actually picture ourselves living in, etc.

First, some honorable mentions:

HONORABLE MENTIONS:

Estes Park, Colorado


Population: 5,858
Gateway to: Rocky Mountain National Park

Unfortunately, Tara and I really did not get to spend any time here on our whirlwind visit to Rocky Mountain NP (we basically just drove through). However, the preview we got was enough to merit an honorable mention. An incredibly scenic backdrop (thanks to the majestic, yet hilariously-named, Lumpy Ridge), and a picturesque resort town. Home of the historic, opulent, and (in)famous Stanley Hotel, that served as Stephen King's inspiration for the Overlook Hotel in The Shining (and the filming location for the 1997 TV-miniseries), it was also the filming location of the glamorous hotel that Harry and Lloyd stay at in Dumb & Dumber.

International Falls, Minnesota
Pop: 6,424
Gateway to: Voyageurs National Park

Unlike most of the other towns on this list, International Falls is not some fancy-schmancy resort town for the uber-wealthy...this is a just a good-old town full of hardscrabble, down to earth, "gosh-dern nice" Midwesterners just waiting to welcome you to the outdoor paradise that is Northern Minnesota. Nicknamed the "Icebox of the Nation," International Falls averages nearly 110 days per year with a high temperature below freezing...yikes! (you might want to visit only in the summer) 😉 Visit Smokey Bear Park, learn about Bronko Nagurski (pro-football Hall of Famer who played for the Chicago Bears back in the 30s), and cross the bridge into Ontario. International Falls also served as the inspiration for the cartoon town of Frostbite Falls, home of Rocky & Bullwinkle.

Restaurant: check out the Chocolate Moose Restaurant. Big, hearty helpings of comfort food for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The Raspberry Monte Cristo (a French Toast ham sandwich) was amazing. Shakes/malts were good too. Outstanding food!

West Yellowstone, Montana
Pop: 1,271
Gateway to: Yellowstone National Park

West Yellowstone is the town on this list that Tara and I have been to the most. It's not super picturesque, but serves as a perfect place to stay while visiting Yellowstone. Tons of stores to buy knick-knacks and souvenirs (a lot of the stores are open-air, it's kind of like a big strip mall). Make sure to catch a show at the Playmill Theater (they do lots of crowd-pleasing, family-friendly productions) and stop at the visitors center and IMAX theater to get all the information you could possibly want about Yellowstone.

Restaurant: Arrowleaf Ice Cream Parlor is a traditional stop for Tara's family. Great ice cream and sundaes with Yellowstone themed names like "Paint Pots" and "Geysers", etc. Unfortunately, according to Google it appears that the place has permanently closed down. If so, that's a shame.

AND NOW, THE TOP 10:

10. Hot Springs, Arkansas

Pop: 35,193
Gateway to: Hot Springs National Park

This hill town in Arkansas is fun and full of historical treasures. The town completely surrounds Hot Springs National Park (a rare park that has an urban setting). Here you find the historic Arlington Hotel, the favorite retreat of Al Capone in the heyday of gangsters and mobsters. Hot Springs was also home to spring training for many baseball clubs back in the day. Take the Historic Baseball trail and walk in the footsteps of such luminaries as Babe Ruth, Walter Johnson, and Honus Wagner. President Bill Clinton grew up here and there's lots of tributes to him throughout the town. There are also lots of great examples of Art Deco architecture. Play some mini-golf, take a boat out on Lake Hamilton, or go to Magic Springs Theme & Water Park. Conclude your day at the Hot Springs Mountain Tower for fantastic views of the city.

Restaurant: Load up on deep-fried seafood (shrimp, catfish, oysters, clams, etc.) at Bubba's, the "Seafood of the South." I have also heard Taco Mama's is very good.

9. Medora, North Dakota


Pop: 112
Gateway to: Theodore Roosevelt National Park

Medora lies just outside the south unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park. The big attraction here is the Medora Musical, which is performed nightly throughout the summer. The show is a big production with lots of boot-stompin' honky-tonk country music. It's a fun show. Also check out Cheateau de Mores State Historic Site, the home and hunting lodge of the Marquis de Mores, a French aristocrat and entrepreneur, who founded the town and ran a successful slaughterhouse and cattle operation. The 1883 home is a fabulous example of luxury life on the frontier.

Restaurant: pair up your ticket to the Medora Musical with the Pitchfork Steak Fondue for a hearty meal before the show.

8. Durango, Colorado

Pop: 16,887
Gateway to: Mesa Verde National Park

Although Mesa Verde NP is nearby, there is a whole lot more to do in the beautiful mountain town of Durango. Hop a ride on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad for a thrilling ride through the Rockies along the Animas River. Make sure to reserve an open-air car to really enjoy the scenery. This is a great way to re-live the glory days of rail travel.

Restaurant: for a small town, Durango has a wide variety of upscale restaurants. We liked the Himalayan Kitchen, a great place to try Indian, Tibetan, and Nepalese cuisine.

7. Terlingua, Texas

Pop: 58
Gateway to: Big Bend National Park

Quirky and eccentric Terlingua is practically a ghost town. But don't let that cause you to drive through, Terlingua is a great place to stay when visiting Big Bend NP...you don't have a lot of options anyway in this lonely and isolated corner of West Texas. This old mining town has a number of odd-ball shops, historic hotels and restaurants, outfitters and guides to explore the backcountry by bike or kayak, and a rundown, historic cemetery. It's quite charming. This is the desert at its finest. 

Restaurant: The main attraction here is the Starlight Theater Restaurant. The whole town seemingly converges at night at this restaurant & saloon that used to be an old-fashioned cinema palace...until the roof blew off. Enjoy good company, live music, excellent food, and look up to see the stars. Go traditional and get the award-winning chili, or the famous Diego Burger (served with a fried egg). Or, if you're a little more adventurous, try the venison, quail, or wild boar. Wash it down with a Prickly Pear cactus margarita. If you're lucky to be in town on the first Saturday of November, you can participate in one of the largest chili cook-offs in the country.

6. Springdale, Utah

Pop: 529
Gateway to: Zion National Park

With a backdrop of the majestic Zion Canyon, Springdale might be one of the most beautiful cities in the entire United States. After a hard day of hiking, there's nothing better than resting in the hot tub at one of the numerous hotels in town, and watch the dramatic sunset unfold on the stunning red-rock mountains. Truly amazing.

Restaurant: Springdale has so many outstanding restaurants. If you're looking for American comfort food in a low-key and fun atmosphere...try Wildcat Willie's (the drinks come in big mason jars). If you're looking for something more upscale, try the Switchback Grille. Excellent crab cakes, an incredible filet mignon, and gateau (fancy French chocolate cake) to die for.

5. Jackson, Wyoming



Pop: 9,577
Gateway to: Grand Teton National Park

Jackson has become a playground for the wealthy elite, but it still retains its Old West, small-town charm. Just west of town is the incredibly posh ski-resort, Jackson Hole. Take the tram all the way to the top of the mountains for awesome views and fresh mountain air, you'll feel like you are on top of the world. Enjoy some waffles at the shack up on top. Overpriced, but very good and a fun place to eat and chat. In town, there's lots to see and do: go on a Chuckwagon dinner show, visit the world renowned museum of wildlife art, and stroll downtown through the shops, stores, and make sure to see the antler arch. If you are into snow skiing, Jackson is the place to be.

Restaurant: If you've never tried buffalo (bison), go to Jackson now! The Gun Barrel is a fantastic place to try bison and elk, or get the Buffalo Burger at the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar and enjoy live music as well. 

4. Moab, Utah

Pop: 5,046
Gateway to: Arches National Park and Canyonlands National Park

Moab gets some bonus points because it pulls double-duty, serving as the gateway to both Arches and Canyonlands (particularly the Island in the Sky region) in southern Utah. This red rock paradise attracts so many tourists that traffic jams on the main highway are a common occurrence on the summer weekends (it's kind of a downer). Many tourists don't even necessarily visit the National Parks, there are so many other things to do here. Moab is a mecca for off-road enthusiasts, and has numerous treacherous and thrilling "courses" for ATV's, side-by-sides, 4x4s, dune buggies, and jeeps. There are also a number of opportunities to float the Colorado River (everything from a leisurely float in an inner tube to extreme white-water rafting). Mountain biking, rock climbing, and BASE jumping have also become incredibly popular here.

Restaurant: on our last visit we went to a newly-opened restaurant, the Sultan Mediterranean Grill. It was incredible! Lebanese & Greek cuisine; we had the tzatziki, gyros, lamb, and pitas. It was so good. And for desert the baklava was incredible. Relatively cheap and great service! Highly recommend.

3. Bar Harbor, Maine




Pop: 5,235
Gateway to: Acadia National Park

Bar Harbor, on the rugged coast of Maine, to put it simply...is absolutely gorgeous. A great town to serve as your base as you explore Acadia National Park. We took a boat tour out to Cranberry Islands and were blown away at all the massive "cottages" that line the shores. The town had a fun, laid-back atmosphere with tons of stores, shops, and bookstores. One evening we took a sunset sail on the Margaret Todd, a four masted schooner. We made new friends and were entertained by live fiddle music. It was very relaxing, calming, and a beautiful and romantic evening on the water. Loved it.






Restaurant: every place we ate at Bar Harbor was fantastic. Just stick with the lobster...you can't go wrong. Lobster bake, lobster roll, lobster bisque, lobster pasta, lobster pizza, or even lobster ice cream(?!)...whether you get it at Geddy's, or Testa's, or wherever...just get the lob-stah!

2. Key West, Florida



Pop: 24,649
Gateway to: Dry Tortugas National Park

I hesitated to include Key West on this list, it's not really known as a "gateway" town to a National Park...but really, the only way to visit Dry Tortugas NP is either from a ferry or a plane from this incredible and unique city. Therefore, Key West makes the list. It's a little unfair, because there is a lot more going on here than simply the long ferry ride out to Fort Jefferson. Key West, aka "The Conch Republic" is an incredibly fun, care-free town full of history. The town is so unique and out-of-the-way (drive over the ocean on miles and miles of bridges), you almost feel like you're in a different country. Indeed, roosters roam the streets at will. 😊 There really is no other place in the USA like Key West.





No visit to Key West would be complete without a stop at the home & museum of the famous author Ernest Hemingway. Visiting Harry Truman's "Little White House" is also a great stop. Relax at one of the many beaches: these are calm waters without hardly any waves; tour a lighthouse; learn about pirates; or just get wasted away in Margaritaville. Key West is its own culture, it's a way of life. It's a party town (but not like college-kid spring break party town...more like "I'm an old guy and I don't care and I'm going to walk around in black socks and sandals" kind of party town). 😊





Restaurant: This town is all about the seafood. Wherever you go, it will be good. We had fish tacos at some random place along Duval Street (I can't remember the restaurant, but it was delicious). It's the main drag, anything along there is good. If you want to get drunk like Hemingway, he was a near-constant presence at Sloppy Joe's Bar. That place was hopping. Whatever you do, do NOT leave town without getting a slice of Key Lime Pie. You bet, this is where it was created, and it...is...fantastic!

1. Gatlinburg/Pigeon Forge, Tennessee



Pop: 3,944 (Gatlinburg); 5,875 (Pigeon Forge)
Gateway to: Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Do you like kitschy, homespun Appalachian culture? Well, bless your heart. All y'all will love Gatlinburg! (and nearby Pigeon Forge). We fell in love with the place on our visit to the Great Smokies. Gatlinburg has bounced back from the devastating fires in 2016 and is a great resort town. Take the gondola up to the Ober Gatlinburg, a resort inspired by the Swiss Alps (but still with a distinct Southern flavor).




Take the short drive down to Pigeon Forge (it's only 2-3 miles), where you will find dozens of go-kart courses, hillbilly mini-golf, comedy shows, dinner shows, quirky museums (think wax museums, etc.), Christmas shops, and lots of fun and games. And it's all relatively inexpensive. The town is practically a shrine to Dolly Parton, and if we had time we would have visited her theme park, Dollywood. Regardless, we went to her Dixie Stampede Dinner Show. It was corny, but it was lots of fun, great music, acrobatic horse riding, etc. And the food was pretty dang good too. It's a hootin' and hollerin' good time! Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge is a vacation destination in and of itself (even without venturing into Great Smoky Mountains National Park...but don't y'all go makin' that mistake, ya hear?)




What are some of your favorite vacation towns?

Wednesday, June 19, 2019

Isle Royale National Park

Visited: Aug 2018
Nearby town: ferries to the island leave from Houghton, MI; Copper Harbor, MI; and Grand Portage, MN

"There is a pleasure in the pathless woods:
There is a rapture on the lonely shore:
There is society, where none intrudes.
By the deep sea, and music in its roar:
I love not man the less, but Nature more..."
-Lord Byron

In the far northern reaches of massive Lake Superior, lies a large and lonely island. Covered in a thick forest, it sparkles like an emerald among a vast sea of blue. Here you will find the incredible wilderness paradise of Isle Royale National Park.

The island is a part of the administrative borders of the state of Michigan, but you will hardly find any signs of civilization here. You will simply find nature, nature at its most beautiful and serene. If you want to get away from it all, Isle Royale is the place to be!

Isle Royale is 45 miles long and 9 miles wide. It has no permanent population. In the 1840s, copper was discovered on the island, and some small mines were built on the island. However, the settlements quickly dwindled away, due to the low yield of copper, the harsh winters, and the utter isolation. Some fish hatcheries and resorts were also built on the island, but they proved to be unsuccessful as well. It was as if Mother Nature was determined to not let mankind conquer this special place. In 1940, Isle Royale and the approximately 450 smaller surrounding islands were designated as a National Park.

Due to its isolation and relatively undeveloped state, Isle Royale is the least visited National Park in the Lower 48. Be aware, visiting Isle Royale requires A LOT of planning. The only way to visit is either by ferry, plane or private boat. There are two main Visitor Centers/developed areas on the island: (1) Windigo, on the island's western end; and (2) Rock Harbor, on the eastern end of the island. There are 4 ferries: Ranger III (which operates between Houghton, MI and Rock Harbor); Isle Royale Queen IV (which operates between Copper Harbor, MI and Rock Harbor); SeaHunter III (which operates between Grand Portage, MN and Windigo); and Voyageur II (it operates from Grand Portage and then circles the island and stops at lots of points all around the island, including both visitor centers). There is also a seaplane that operates between Houghton, MI and both visitor centers.

The park is open April 16 - Oct 31. The ferries only operate at certain times and certain days of the week, so make sure to plan ahead. Most visitors exploring Isle Royale spend a couple of days to a week backpacking and camping on the island. Tara and I aren't that experienced of hikers/campers so we opted for the day trip (limited time was also a big factor). Now, as difficult as it may seem, a day trip to Isle Royale is entirely possible and a lot of fun. Two of the ferries offer day trips (1) Isle Royale Queen IV to Rock Harbor and (2) SeaHunter III to Windigo. The Isle Royale Queen IV is a 3 hour ferry ride one-way and visitors will spend 3 hours on the island itself. The SeaHunter III is a 1.5 hour ferry ride one-way and visitors will spend 4 hours on the island. Keep in mind that these two ferries leave from cities that are very far away from each other (a nearly 8 hour drive). Traveling by seaplane will give you a lot more time on the island, but it is much more expensive. We opted to take SeaHunter III leaving from Grand Portage, MN.

Our trip to Minnesota had some uncharacteristic weather. A record heat wave swept through the state (locals told us the days we were there were some of the hottest days they had in decades), and it was incredibly humid. There were also a lot of forest fires up in Canada that blew smoke down into the Lake Superior area, so unfortunately it was quite hazy. However, the lake was very calm and the haze lifted by noon or so. It was an early start at the dock in Grand Portage to board the ferry.
Getting to Isle Royale is an adventure in itself. I was surprised how small the boat was, but we had nice calm water for our ride, so no motion sickness. There was a large scout troop on the ride over that were going to spend a week and a half backpacking around the island. Most everyone else were day-trippers, and, like us, were National Park enthusiasts! We met many other people who also had a goal to visit all the parks. It was fun to talk to everybody and we were all excited to be able to "check-off" this hard to visit park.

Due to the calm waters and the haze, the water looked like glass. Looking out at the horizon, it was very hard to tell when the lake ended and the sky began.

There's a horizon out there, believe me! Our ride continued...





Rock of Ages lighthouse in the distance, we will get closer to it on our way back
Eventually we entered Washington Harbor. Here we saw the shipwreck of the SS America, a packet boat that sunk in these cold waters in 1928. All passengers and crew were rescued and there were no injuries. The hull is still intact and part of the boat is a mere 2 feet below the surface. It is a popular diving spot to scuba dive through the wreckage. We could easily see it from our ferry boat.


We then docked at Windigo Visitor Center. Because you only have four hours on shore, there is not a whole lot of time for any major hiking. There are some short nature trails near the visitors center or you can venture on an out-and-back, but don't go too far! Give yourself enough time so you don't miss the boat.

We took the Feldtmann Lake Trail up to Grace Creek Overlook (1.8 miles one-way, 3.6 miles roundtrip). This was a pleasant hike that ran along Washington Harbor in a heavily wooded area. It then climbs up a ridge and then at the top, the views open up and you can see the Grace Creek and Lake Superior (Washington Harbor).

















Nice views at the top (even though it was still quite hazy)






After enjoying some snacks at the top (and chatting with some other National Park trekkers) we made our way back to the Visitor Center and checked out the museum and just enjoyed what nature has to offer. Some day-trippers saw a moose, we were not so lucky.






A lighthouse mirror at the Visitor's Center







On our way back to Grand Portage we cruised along The Rock of Ages Lighthouse. This 117-ft tall lighthouse has been active since 1910. It was beautiful.






Traveling on Lake Superior was amazing. For a couple minutes of the ride, we were in a spot where we could not see land in any direction. It's pretty incredible to be on a lake so massive that it seems you're in the middle of the ocean.

As with all the parks we visit...we want to go back! Isle Royale is a precious jewel of our National Park System. This pristine wilderness needs to be seen to truly be appreciated. It would be a great adventure to take a week or so and hike and backpack across the island...maybe some day. For more info: https://www.nps.gov/isro/index.htm