Aztec Ruins National Monument

Visited: May 2017

Nearby town: Aztec, NM

In the northwestern corner of New Mexico, you can find the incredible ruins of a village constructed nearly a thousand years ago by the Ancestral Puebloans.

First things first, these ruins were not built by the Aztecs! 😊 Early white settlers in the 19th century mistakenly believed that the Aztecs (the great ancient empire that inhabited the region around present-day Mexico City) must have built these impressive structures. But no, they were built and inhabited by the local Pueblo Indians. 

These ruins were preserved by a homesteader and early town founder, H.D. Abrams, who owned the land the ruins sat on. Abrams was an amateur archaeologist and unearthed many of the artifacts that are contained today in the Park Visitor Center and Museum. The National Park Service eventually acquired the land from Abrams, and Aztec Ruins (by this time, the name had stuck) became a National Monument on January 24, 1923.

Aztec Ruins is a relatively small park that can easily be visited and explored in a few hours, and is a great place to pair up with a visit to nearby Mesa Verde National Park (across the border in Colorado). The Ancestral Puebloans built both these ruins and the impressive cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde.

Your first stop should be the Visitor Center. There are lots of artifacts to see and peruse, and a 15-minute film serves as a good introduction to the Monument.

Then take in the views of the entire structure. There are over 400 rooms in this complex. Approximately 300 people lived here year round, and these ruins were inhabited for around 200 years (from 1100 AD - 1300 AD).

Now take the half-mile loop trail that takes you in and around the ruins. The first stop is a reconstructed great kiva. These circular rooms were present in nearly every household and had great spiritual and familial significance to the Pueblos. Some villages, like the one here, also had a large kiva that would hold ceremonies and activities for the entire community.

This structure is reconstructed to look like what it might have back in its heyday in the 12th-14th centuries. You can go inside.

The trail continues through the ruins. This is a very neat place, you get a chance to really get up close and personal with the ruins. You can wander through the ruins to your heart's content.

kiva

Some of the doorways and passageways are quite narrow and small. I think the Ancestral Puebloans were much smaller than me. 😂

We enjoyed our time at Aztec Ruins National Monument. For more info: https://www.nps.gov/azru/index.htm 

Dry Tortugas National Park

Visited: Feb 2019

Nearby city: Key West, FL

Dry Tortugas is an incredibly unique park that Tara and I had a blast visiting. The park protects the westernmost and most isolated of the Florida Keys.

The main key (island) is Garden Key. It is located approximately 68 miles west of Key West. There are no roads that lead to the park. In order to visit, you need to take the Yankee Freedom III ferry or seaplane from Key West. Theoretically, you could take a private boat to the Park, but it would be quite a journey.

We opted for a day trip via ferry. The Yankee Freedom III leaves daily from Key West. It's an early start, but they'll take care of you. They provide breakfast, lunch, and snorkel gear. On a day trip, you'll get about 4.5 hours on the island. They will provide a guided tour of Fort Jefferson, or you can explore and snorkel to your heart's content. The boat also sells plenty of other things you might need (including dramamine). This is a great way to visit the Park. I feel that the 4.5 hours is adequate. If you wish to stay longer, you can reserve a campground, but you need to do it approximately 8-12 months in advance. You can also rent kayaks and paddle out to the other keys (Loggerhead Keys is about 2.5 miles away, and is home to a beautiful lighthouse).

your vessel to the Dry Tortugas

This is quite the ferry ride. It's about 2 hours and 15 minutes (one-way). So your visit will pretty much take up the entire day.

The Dry Tortugas were discovered by Ponce de Leon in 1513 during his first expedition to the Florida peninsula. While there, the explorers were easily able to catch turtles (as some sailors described, a wave would crash onto the boat leaving a sea turtle beached on the deck). The turtles were a plentiful and excellent food source for the expedition party. Ponce de Leon named the islands "Tortugas" (Spanish for turtles). The prefix "Dry" was later added by mapmakers to indicate that there were no fresh water sources on these keys. And that is still true today. Remember, if you are camping, you need to haul in all your own water.

Dry Tortugas (along with the rest of Florida) was acquired by the U.S. from Spain in 1822. The US recognized the strategic importance of the Dry Tortugas and quickly developed plans to build a garrison or fort on Garden Key. The area between Key West and the Dry Tortugas (referred to as the Straits of Florida) was the main waterway for any ship going from the Atlantic Ocean to enter the Gulf of Mexico.

Construction of Fort Jefferson began in 1847. It would have been one of the largest masonry brick fortresses in the world, but construction was never completed. The fort practically takes up the entire key. It was quite the Herculean task to build a fort in such a remote and isolated location. During the Civil War, construction halted and the Fort was used as a military prison. Perhaps the most (in)famous inmate was Dr. Samuel Mudd. Dr. Mudd was controversially charged and convicted by a military tribunal for being a co-conspirator (or an accessory after the fact) in the assassination of Abraham Lincoln. Lincoln's assassin, John Wilkes Booth, had broken his leg during his escape from Ford's Theater. At about 4 in the morning, Booth showed up at Dr. Mudd's house, requesting treatment. Dr. Mudd set his leg, gave him some shoes, and provided him crutches. While the extent of Dr. Mudd's involvement and knowledge of the conspiracy has been disputed ever since, there is no dispute that Dr. Mudd waited over 24 hours before alerting authorities about Booth's early morning visit.

Dr. Mudd was sentenced to life in prison (he escaped the death penalty by a single vote). He was sent to Ft. Jefferson in July 1865. In 1867, a severe outbreak of yellow fever broke out in the fort. It was so bad, the prison doctor died. Dr. Mudd volunteered to take over the position. His efforts and work helped stem the tide of the disease. Because of his efforts, Dr. Mudd was pardoned by President Andrew Johnson in 1869.

approaching Ft. Jefferson

The Fort is very cool to walk around and explore. You can take the guided tour provided through the Yankee Freedom III staff, or just explore on your own. There is a moat that goes around the entire fort. This is a good place for snorkeling.

Inside the Fort.

In the late 80s, a number of Cuban refugees constructed this makeshift boat and landed on nearby Loggerhead Island. Per US Policy at the time, they were granted asylum.

extensive reconstruction on the guard tower/light house

We spent the rest of the day snorkeling, enjoying the beach and soaking in the views. It was a lot of fun. Didn't see too much snorkeling. Storms have come through and really churned up the waters, so the conditions weren't that clear. I hear that is a big problem lately, so if you are really into snorkeling there are better spots in the Keys.

Loggerhead Lighthouse in the distance

incredible ocean views

Dry Tortugas is an exceptional and unique visit. More info here: https://www.nps.gov/drto/index.htm

BONUS: Dry Tortugas is just one of many fun things to do in Key West. If you've never been to Key West, it really is quite an adventure. Taking the Overseas Highway from Miami to Key West is an incredibly scenic drive and the highlight of our Florida trip. Driving out to Key West, it's almost like going into a different country. I loved Key West (aka "The Conch Republic"), it's a quirky and laid-back town, unlike any I've ever been to the US.

Make sure to stop at Ernest Hemmingway's home. The famous author lived here from 1931-1939. Take a tour of his home, it's a must do.

it was in this studio that Hemingway wrote "Green Hills of Africa" and "To Have and Have Not"

We also stopped at the "Little White House" Formerly a naval officer's quarters, this home has been used by many Presidents, but most prominently by Harry Truman, who loved to take "working holidays" in the relaxing Keys. It's also a great tour.

Little White House

Key West is a great town to relax, window shop and people-watch. Lots of good food and a fun, party atmosphere. But not a bunch of wild teenagers, more like retirees (they're fun too, just not as annoying!) 😁 Also, be sure to get plenty of Key Lime Pie! It's so good!

Dry Tortugas National Park was a great park to "check off" our list!